Golden seaweed, coconut oil and snail slime? Ingredients once considered exotic, or even bizarre, are commonplace in personal care products formulated from prestige to the mass market. And calling out hero ingredients, regardless of what they are is hot right now, noted Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty industry analyst at The NPD Group in Port Washington, NY. According to NPD, Q2 skin care sales increased 6% to $1.4 billion.


Furthermore, “food-to-face” ingredients include everything but the kitchen sink, according to market research firm Mintel in its report, Skincare Ingredients and Format Trends. This wellness trend is driven by the association between diet and skin, as well as consumer interest in natural offerings. Food-inspired ingredients commonly found in skin care over the past few years have included coconut oil, argan oil and almond oil as well as dairy-based ingredients such as yogurt, according to Mintel. More recently, brands have expanded food-ingredient claims, infusing products with everything from tomatoes to coffee!


Dr. Arielle Kauvar, a clinical professor of dermatology, New York University School of Medicine, New York, noted that components such as manuka honey, curry and turmeric are known for their anti-inflammatory properties while niacinamide/vitamin B3 improves skin barrier repair and acts as an anti-inflammatory. The also-popular hyaluronic acid, at a low molecular weight, improves skin permeability, he said.


According to a recent Think with Google beauty trends report, the top skin care concerns among Americans are healing acne scars and detoxifying skin. Furthering their research, the study gathered a list of the top trending skin care ingredients to heal such concerns, such as clay, micellar water and rose hip. Some of these products, such as Botanics sold at Target and Walgreens, are even easily found in the mass market.


While today’s consumers continue to show a preference for natural or naturally-derived products, they also consider high efficiency as a must-have feature in cosmetic products, according to Nikola Matic, Kline’s chemicals and materials industry director.


“Simultaneously, end users look for solutions to new skin concerns, such as harm from blue light and infrared radiation,” he told Happi. “To meet the demand, manufacturers shift their focus to more advanced product technologies, such as probiotics, cell-derived actives and neuro-cosmetics.


What’s Out There?

Skin care formulations in demand contain everything from the vitamin-rich to classic (think coconut oil). For example, professional brand Exuviance is set to roll out AF Vitamin C20 Serum Capsules, a potent formulation of maximum strength 20% vitamin C and patented AminoFil to restore and protect skin, at Ulta. Innovation is nothing new at Exuviance—the company discovered the anti-aging benefits of glycolic acid and created and patented the first glycolic peel.


L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C, is an essential co-factor in the production of collagen helping to improve firmness, strengthen skin’s matrix, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, brighten dark spots, and protect against daily environmental damage. Patented AminoFil volumizes and targets the skin matrix for enhanced firming benefits.


“Vitamin C has long been a go-to topical treatment, but many formulas have been ineffective as they lose potency once opened,” explained Barbara Green, head, R&D and clinical research, NeoStrata Company, Inc. “Regular exposure to air and light cause the L-ascorbic acid to break down. The single-use capsule delivery mechanism of Exuviance AF Vitamin C20 Serum Capsules prevents ingredient degradation and ensures that consumers are getting maximum benefits from each application.”


Mary Kay recently utilized its US seminar in Dallas to launch TimeWise Vitamin C Activating Squares, a dissolvable tablet that is designed to be mixed into a skin care serum. According to chief scientific officer Dr. Lucy Gildea, pure vitamin C degrades and loses its power over time when exposed to air, light or water, but with the new Mary Kay dissolvable vitamin C square, a serum is enhanced and boosted with a “fresh, pure and potent” vitamin C elixir.


“It’s a revolutionary skin care innovation in the palm of your hand,” said Gildea.


Meanwhile, iS Clinical recently launched three new innovative products: Hydra-Intensive Cooling Masque, Warming Cleanser and a Copper Firming Mist. The masque is a cooling treatment designed to reinvigorate and provide soothing hydration. The formula includes natural botanical antioxidants centella asiatica, green tea, aloe vera and rosemary extracts. Also included is a botanically-sourced hyaluronic acid. The copper-fueled firming mist is said to improve skin elasticity, hydration and firmness; the warming cleanser effectively cleans skin while gently exfoliating with papaya enzymes and green tea extracts.


Natural ingredients are still big in the marketplace. Aveda launched Tulasara Renew Morning Crème, a skin care SKU said to restore skin glow and visibly firm and strengthen the skin against environmental aggressors. The product is formulated with mineral-derived light reflecting ingredients, molasses, bio-fermented peptide, sigesbeckia, ginger extract and plant derived antioxidants. Tulasara Renew Morning Crème is also made with Aveda’s own Pure-Fume aroma, a blend of jasmine, chamomile, grapefruit and other pure flower and plant essences.


With a vast array of skin care products on the market, there are few brands that set themselves apart. Kat Burki was determined to stand out on the already crowded shelves when she created her eponymous line of “eco-luxury” skin care. Implementing the first ever certified cold processing technology, Burki of Westport, CT, ensures that all vital ingredients and antioxidants retain maximal effectiveness, she told Happi.


“Cold processing keeps all ingredients in the processing stage at their highest level of efficacy. High heat degrades vitamins, oils and antioxidants,” she explained.


With formulations and products geared toward every skin type, choose from the Essential Radiance Collection best for achieving healthy, glowing skin, Complete B Repair to brighten, heal and correct, and the Advanced Anti-Aging Collection to support aging skin gracefully.


For Fall 2017, Kat Burki launched pH+ Enzyme Essence, a serum that exfoliates, moisturizes and balances the pH level of the skin. According to Burki, the ingredients balance the pH level, then the serum works to fix hyperpigmentation and weakens elasticity. The serum keeps moisture locked in while the antioxidant-dense turmeric strengthens, and the vitamin C, pumpkin seed oil and papaya support collagen to maintain skin structure and firmness. The formula does not contain parabens, synthetic dyes, synthetic fragrances, gluten, sulfates, petrolatum and mineral oils.


Osmosis Skincare launched an updated version of its Stemfactor Growth Factor Serum. The reformulated StemFactor contains more than 540 uniquely identified proteins and a higher concentration of growth factors. StemFactor reportedly contains 350% more protein than other competitors.


The new formula contains actual human stem cell-derived molecules of collagen, elastin, SOD (superoxide dismutase), fibronectin and star ingredient tropocollagen, which skin produces naturally. This makes it easy for the skin to recognize and regenerate these proteins back into the system, according to the company. The micronized compounds making up this powerful serum do not contain any animal-derived collagen or “highly processed” elements. 


Masks are trending in personal care right now. Michael Todd Beauty is adding another anti-aging product to its line of high performance, prestige natural formulas (all Michael Todd Beauty skin care items are formulated with 100% organic aloe vera leaf juice, without any water added). Its latest introduction is the Perform FX All-in-1 Complete Anti-Aging Silk Mask, a six-week treatment regimen that targets every aspect of visual aging with highly concentrated youth-boosting actives infused into the formula at the most potent levels. The mask is formulated with hyaluronic acid, elastin amino acids, hydrolyzed collagen, a chain of amino acids and proteins (tripeptide-3, dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3) and DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol). 


According to Erica Parker, esthetician and education director at Michael Todd Beauty, St Augustine, FL, the heavy hitting staples in most cosmetic skin care formulations like hyaluronic acid, retinol and peptides are being formulated in a boosted version and readily used by major beauty brands.


“In the past, a development team could create an effective anti-aging formulation focusing on the top three staple ingredients, but today the consumer wants more,” she told Happi.


Also in the lux ingredients category is the new Starskin Silkmud Pink French Clay Purifying Mud Sheet Mask (even the name sounds glamourous). This mess-free mud mask combines the deep cleansing power of mud with the convenience of a sheet mask. Constructed from ultra-fine gauze, each mask is infused with pink French clay, kaolin clay and bentonite to blitz blemishes, blackheads and blocked pores without drying skin. Natural silk cocoon extract softens skin, while niacinamide smooths and brightens. Silkmud even creates a natural lifting effect as it hardens, according to the company. After just 20 minutes, simply lift away, rinse and glow! This formulation is said to be ideal for oily, blemished or acne-prone skin and is sold at Barneys.


Big in prestige right now is Korres’ Black Pine Super Eye Serum. According to the company, this 360-degree eye lifter will leave your entire eye area—including the lids—looking youthful, bright and fatigue-free. The serum visibly lifts upper eyelids, stimulating collagen and elastin production while diminishing dark circles, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and eliminating puffiness. It also contains the “DefEye” Gravity Complex, an active that has demonstrated visible lifting action on sagging upper eyelids, and has three types of hydrating hyaluronic acid in varying molecular weights.


The serum includes a polysaccharide complex of tamarind seeds that instantly smooth fine lines and wrinkles while regulating moisture and improving texture and an oat-derived complex of sugars to impart an immediate lifting effect. Finally, the formula includes three types of hydrating hyaluronic acid in varying molecular weights. Topping off the serum is panthenol which moisturizes skin and nourishes eyelashes.


This month, Elemis is adding a marine oil to its Pro-Collagen line. The formula combines a trio of seaweeds including padina pavonica, golden seaweed and roaring water kelp to deliver maximum hydration, while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. White poppy seed plumps the skin with moisture and leaves the complexion looking revitalized and radiant.


Some marketers like Aura Cacia are sticking with the classics. Its new Aura Cacia Organic Coconut Oil is said to top other coconut oils in product certifications, processing standards and giving back, providing a premium option for consumers seeking coconut oil’s many skin and hair care benefits, said the company. This unrefined coconut oil’s natural tropical aroma and crystal-white appearance signal its high quality.


“Coconut oil is increasingly popular as more people discover its versatile benefits for body care. It conditions and moisturizes your skin and hair, leaving a protective layer on the skin and penetrating the hair shaft for deep conditioning. It’s a simple product, containing powerful, natural fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants. It’s also simple to use—you can easily apply it directly to your skin or use it in DIY products with essential oils,” said Katie Shatzer, assistant brand manager, Aura Cacia, Norway, IA.


Formulating the Future

Thought vegan was just for food? Think again. The trend is just as important in American skin care, according to the Google report. Though still trailing other top trends, US searches for the vegan skin care category have grown 83% in the past year. Other Google findings: Masks have sustained popularity in Japan for the past five years and, most recently, is finding a growing audience in the US and France.


According to Dr. Kauvar microbiome-based skin treatments, ingestible sun protection and topical tranexamic acid for hyperpigmentation/melisma will burst on the scene in 2018. Burki claimed consumers are looking for ingredients that make a difference—and quickly—like vitamins.


“Vitamin K, C and B—combined with ingredients high in antioxidant value—will be at the forefront of offering skin health and wellness benefits through vitamin therapy,” she told Happi.


Overall, the market is challenged by blurring lines between skin care products, as the benefits included in sun care, body care and facial skincare offerings often overlap, found Mintel. Blurred lines and increased market competition make it difficult for brands to differentiate offerings; brands will continue to look for unique sources of inspiration like hot beauty ingredients to stand out to consumers. 

Additional reporting provided by Alexandra Davies.